Journal Notes:

I’ve been working on a musk blend with Purple, building a middle ground between the many faces of powdery notes: the earthy side of iris, the floral side of ambergris, and the gourmand side of musk. Misk Ateeq went the vintage route, with an added pollen-powdery aspect from red champaca.

The second release is Cherry Musk, which builds on that powderiness with cherry and a touch of cacao. It is slightly gourmand, with an ever-so-subtle oakwood balsamic smokiness that is genuinely attractive. Secretive and luring.

I wanted the cherry to be as realistic as possible, so I worked from a combination of absolutes and essential oils, and tinctured Iranian cherries from an Iranian market in Muscat. The result, while subtle, is the cherry fruit leather you’d find in traditional Iranian markets: ripe and dark rather than cloying, held in check by the smokiness, resins, and musk.

I started this blend with a firm commitment not to add oud, so any oud added later would be icing on the cake. The profile ended up so believable that everyone who smelled it thought I had used it. The impression was simply the outcome of the materials I chose. Only once the blend was nearly finished did I give it a real oud backbone, with a heavy dose of Koh Kong to amplify the resinous and fruity quality in an oud-like style, something that can’t be achieved any other way. Why, if it was already good? I wanted to make it ever so slightly better. It’s the difference between a rough cut and a smooth, surgical refinement.

So what’s inside? Purple, with its iris, ambergris, lilac, and nigella, among others. Then come the musks and oakwood, with roses: Moroccan, cymosa, and rugosa. Cumin and star anise add a touch of spice, while a roasted chestnut accord and vanilla bring a creamy smokiness. The fermented fruitiness comes from cherry, pomegranate, and cherry blossom tincture, and a touch of cacao, more earthy and woody than nutty, balances the overall presence.

The result is musky, powdery, dark fruity, slightly smoky, and oudy, with the notes coming at you all together and cherry at the center.

If you ask me, it’s a complete composition, and I don’t feel add-ons are a valid proposition here. That said, I understand that someone may try this and have their imagination spurred, so I’m still happy to entertain bespoke requests on this one. Read more about add-ons here.