Journal Notes:

I find that certain jasmines already carry a naturally leathery quality—especially Night-Blooming Jasmine, along with certain vintage jasmine oils, if you are fortunate enough to encounter a good batch. I did.

The idea of a jasmine leather composition was later confirmed during a trip to Jabal Akhdar in Oman, where I encountered a small Night-Blooming Jasmine growing in its natural environment. Experiencing it on the stem removed any abstraction. It was no longer a theory—it became certainty. There, it clearly expressed a creamy, slightly animalic leather facet. I kept thinking: jasmine is leathery.

From that point, I began developing my own leather accord. After many iterations, it evolved into a genre of its own, of which this is the first release. It would later also lead to Castore Rouge.

Back to this one.

At the heart of the composition lies a triad of jasmine materials: a vintage jasmine acquired from a respected collector in Oman, Night-Blooming Jasmine, and Juhi. Around them sit osmanthus, peach, apricot, and a touch of saffron. The foundation is built on Prachin, Merauke, and Trat ouds.

At one stage, the composition became too still and heavy. I wanted to preserve that Night-Blooming Jasmine’s weighted, perhaps slow-moving nocturnal quality. I turned to Kewra and Moroccan Neroli.

The effect was immediate. The composition shifted toward a curious fermented-fruit character—rich and expressive, yet without sweetness. It was a clear improvement, though it still lacked definition in movement. That is what Moroccan Neroli did: it brought air into the composition, sharpened the transitions, and ultimately sealed the blend into its final form.

A needed update:

I could not resist adding a generous amount of breathtaking Italian Jasmine (grandiflorum) that I recently managed to get my hands on. Thank God, the oil arrived just before I was preparing to release this blend.

Since the labels had already been produced, I had a choice to make: keep the composition as it was, create new labels to mention the Italian jasmine, or move forward with incorporating the jasmine while using the existing labels. I chose to incorporate the jasmine and move forward with the existing labels.

The decision was ultimately about elevating the blend into a far more exceptional jasmine composition—one that is truly worthy of a place on your shelf.

Concentrations 

I just published a short post (after a few typo fixes) on going lighter for Nightfall, Castore, Al Bahar and Prestige. This is the first one ready.

The Original concentration is what you'd expect. The lighter version is airier, and you arrive at the honeyed jasmine notes earlier. It's a beautiful blend, and I'm honestly glad I went this route.

The Light is about a third as concentrated as the OG: one part OG to two parts perfumer's alcohol. Everything else is the same.